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CLEANING CARVING TOOLS Tips from
the Master
by Gary LeMaster
Following this request
from egger on the Eggart Group, Gary offered the following hints and
tips for cleaning carving tools. Thank you Gary for allowing me to
include this valuable information on the website. I'm sure a lot of
eggers will find this very helpful.
I would very much like to read again how to
clean, oil, and care for all the brands. I have the Shofu and the
Endura. I would use them more if I felt more comfortable about
taking care of them. I am not above adding the Turbo-Carver on your
word alone.
Lois Yaw
Okay then...
I'll outline the most important issues regarding the maintenance of
our beloved high-speed air tools.
First, if you have a drill that needs to be regularly oiled, be sure
to follow the guidelines provided by the manufacturer and follow
them to the letter.
The Shofu (or SCM)
drill comes with a special fine oil and I do believe that the
instructions say to oil it after every 4-6 hours of use. SCM and
Shofu both include oiling instructions with the tools and although
they vary a bit in wording, they are trying to say the same thing.
Most other drills (the Paragraver,
PowerCrafter, Foredom, the Golden Egg and older models of the
Turbo-Carver) need to be oiled about every 20 minutes.
The Endura comes with its own
metered spray for lubrication. If you have an automatic oiler, you
need to keep a sharp eye on the oiler bulb to make sure that it is
only feeding one drip into the line every 45 seconds or so.
Please follow your manufacturer's
oiling recommendations carefully, keeping in mind that too much oil
can cause as much damage as not enough oil. finally, never use oil
other than what is required by the manufacturer. Air tool oil is
very, very fine and if you try to use 3-in-one oil (or something
similar) you'll really cause havoc.
Speaking of damage, moisture is
poison for all of these drills, too (except for the Turbo-Carver, of
course) so you MUST have a good moisture trap on your air hose
between the compressor and your drill. Compressor heat produces a
surprisingly large amount of moisture, even in areas of low humidity
and just the tiniest bit of moisture hitting your turbine will cost
you dearly. Even with a moisture filter, you should regularly empty
the compressor tank (if your compressor HAS an air tank) through the
moisture escape valve on the bottom of the tank. In high humidity
areas, this task should be performed daily.
Now, no matter what type or brand of
drill you have, this next maintenance tip is absolutely critical.
The #1 drill killer is poor cleaning methods on the part of the
user. You MUST clean the tip of your drill EVERY time you remove a
bur. Before removing a bur, use a soft toothbrush (provided with
every Turbo-Carver) and clean away the debris that collects on the
end of your drill, paying particular attention to where the bur
enters the drill.
When you've removed all the debris you
can see, remove the bur. Before inserting a new bur, however, run
the drill for about one second or two so that the air can blow away
the microscopic dust around the collet that you CAN'T see. Limit
this time to one or two seconds because more is NOT better.
Running the drill for more than a
few seconds without a bur inserted can wreck your bearings, too.
Okay, you've cleaned up as best you can. Before inserting another
bur, make sure that it is clean, too. Failing to heed these simple
steps will ensure that, over time, you'll be pushing egg dust, gourd
dust, etc. right down into your drill and - believe me - if
you'retrying to blame the problem on bad bearings during your
warranty period, the manufacturer of your drill can tell as soon as
he/she looks inside the drill if it's truly a faulty bearing or if
you've caused the problem yourself by not cleaning your tool as
required.
Finally, you must use the tool properly
to begin with. I know this isn't exactly maintenance, but you can do
irreparable harm to your drill by misusing it. The two most common
user mistakes are: not inserting a bur all the way and asking the
drill to do more than it's designed to do. If you insert a bur only
partway into the drill, it can wobble during use, which will quickly
strip the bearings. And, if you're trying to cut all the way through
an ostrich shell in one pass, you'll probably burn up your bearings,
so be patient and make several passes, going deeper with each
stroke.
That's all that immediately comes to
mind, but I'll give maintenance some more thought and if anything
else occurs to me I'll let you know. If you have specific questions,
just let ME know.
Happy carving!
Gary LeMaster
Helping YOU Create Exquisite Eggshell Art
The Eggshell Sculptor Magazine (TM)
415 Terrace Road
Iowa City, IA 52245-5026
Ph: (319) 338-2094
Fax: (319) 339-9133
http://www.eggzotica.com
Email: Eggzotica@mchsi.com
or EggZotic@aol.com
Be sure to visit
Gary's site and see the
fabulous work he has done
Please help me keep this site up and
running....
ANYTHING is appreciated, thank you so much!
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